Being a Probashi Bengali (a non-resident Bengali), my affair with Kolkata is a long-standing one. Born to parents who were originally from Kolkata, I have been brought up in Delhi all my life. I always had a strange feeling whenever I visited the city, predominately because of the culture difference. While I was growing up, I have always seen Kolkata as an outsider, without having a chance to feel the soul, the spirit of the city.
But each time I had been there, the city gave me a sense of belonging, offered me something new to take back. The City of Joy, as it is affectionately called, does something to you which cannot be upturned. Every time I have travelled to this city, it left an everlasting impression on me as a person.
My latest trip to the city was an official one, for two days, to cover the inaugural game of the Indian Super League (ISL) - the new hope of Indian football. I have always heard of the city's madness for football but it was only this time that I had the opportunity to witness it from close quarters.
The city is crazy about football
The people of Kolkata force you to rethink the definition of passion. The zeal with which they follow their game is probably something I haven't seen before. Wherever you go, from a narrow lane in north Kolkata to swanky grounds of the south, you would see a bunch of kids playing football. A day before the match I planned to travel around the stadium and see the buzz generated by the ISL in the city. It was a rainy afternoon, drizzling to be precise, and I saw people unmoved from their queues, standing undeterred in front of the ticket counters at the iconic Salt Lake Stadium.
From school kids to senior citizens, everybody braved the rain to get their ticket. If this was not enough, then on the match day when I checked out of my hotel to reach the stadium, a journey of not more than 10 minutes took an hour to complete. Hoards of people were charging towards the stadium entrance giving the traffic police a nightmare. It wasn't a Kolkata derby clash but people here just love the game. The stadium was jam-packed with sixty thousand plus attendance. The crowd made Mexican wave on every good move by the home team Atletico de Kolkata, which eventually won 3-0 against Mumbai City FC. If you want to watch football, Kolkata is the place for you. The city's passion for the game is second to none.
An unplanned visit to Syed Rahim Nabi's home
It happened to be that I went to attend a lunch invite to one of my relatives living in Howrah. In the middle of a lunch-table conversation, when I disclosed my purpose of visiting the city, my uncle quickly rose up and with an animated face, said: "Nabi lives near our house! Yes, footballer Nabi lives a few blocks away." And suddenly all my focus shifted from the delicious lunch cooked by my aunt to Nabi's house. So quickly after finishing the food (leaving the table without finishing the food is a sin in Kolkata), I went to check out Mumbai City FC captain's house.
But the visit left us disappointed when we realised that nobody was at home. However, I was left flabbergasted with the modesty of Nabi's home. It was a simple three-storey building located in one of the narrow lanes of Howrah. For a person unfamiliar with the locality, it was not until I saw the sign board that I realised that I am standing in front of Nabi's home. It speaks a volume about Nabi's character and the hardship behind his success.
The Maidan Area - home of the legends
If you are in Kolkata and the purpose of the visit is football, then a visit to the Maidan area is a must. The name of the area struck me at first when I heard it but when I reached there I realised why it is called the Maidan area, mostly because of the gigantic grounds.
The place is home to three of the most legendary football clubs in the country - Mohun Bagan, East Bengal and Mohammedan Sporting.
These clubs have so far ruled over the city, creating a divide in the fan base. Not just these, many more city football clubs are located in the area, which is maintained by the Army. There's also a statue of Gostha Pal, which grabbed my attention. Pal is considered one of the most celebrated and gifted defenders the country has ever produced. A Mohun Bagan legend, Pal was nicknamed "The Great Wall of China" for his great defensive skills. He was the first Indian footballer to be honoured with the Padma Shri award.
Incidentally, my fascination towards the Maidan area didn't end here. It is also home to the Mecca of Indian Cricket - The Eden Gardens. And even on a tour to cover football, I couldn't resist but to quickly grab a few clicks of the legendary stadium.
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