How to Dye Brown Hair Without Bleach

Choosing Your Color

Buy basic hair dye if you want to stick to a similar shade or go darker. Hair dye is translucent, so it only adds to the existing color. This means that you can dye your hair any color you want, as long as the new color is a similar shade or darker. For example, if you have medium brown hair, you could dye it a medium shade of red or even dark brown. However, you couldn't go from black hair to brown hair. You can buy dye in a kit, or you can buy the dye and developer separately. Most boxed hair dyes include 20 volume developer. The developer is what helps process the dye and allows it to stick to your hair. If you are buying the developer separately, stick with a 10 or 20 volume developer since it is safe to use at home for beginners. It is less-damaging and easier to work with than 30 or 40 volume. If you're trying to cover up gray hairs, use a 20 volume developer.

Choose blonde dye if you want to lighten your hair. It is possible to dye brown hair lighter, but you won't get the color on the box without bleaching it. Instead, choose a light, medium, or dark shade of blonde. The lighter the blonde is, the lighter your hair will turn out. Unless you are starting with light brown hair, it’s unlikely that you will end up with blonde hair. Some types of blonde hair dye have lightener added to them. This means that they may work even on dark brown hair. Your hair may turn brassy, so buy a packet of hair toner or purple shampoo as well. This product will help remove brassy tints.

Try dye specially made for brown or dark-colored hair. There are actually dyes on the market that are made specifically for darker hair colors. This means that you can dye your hair a brighter shade, like red or blue, without having to bleach it first. Some brands that make such hair dye include Lime Crime and Splat. Look for labels that say "For Dark Hair" or "For Brunette Hair."

Match the tone to your skin's undertone for best results. Like skin, hair color comes in both warm and cool undertones. This means that if your skin has warm undertones, you should get dye with warm undertones as well. Alternatively, if you have cool skin, then your hair dye should be cool as well. Most dyes will have a W or C after the number. The "W" stands for "Warm" while the "C" stands for "cool." Some dyes will have an "A" instead of a "C." This stands for Ash, which denotes a cool undertone.

Understand that you cannot achieve a pastel color without bleach. In order to get pastel colors, you need to start with white hair that's been toned to silver. In order to get white hair, you need to bleach it. This also goes for bright shades, like neon pink or yellow. You don't have to make your hair white, but a bleached-blond base will give you better results. You may be able to color your hair a pastel color using hair chalk, but this is not permanent.

Sectioning Your Hair and Mixing the Dye

Start with dry, brushed hair that hasn't been washed for 24 to 48 hours. This is important as the oils on your hair will help protect it against damage. When you do wash your hair 24 to 48 hours prior, make sure that you only use shampoo. Conditioner will prevent the dye from adhering.

Protect your clothing and skin against stains. Put on a shirt that you won't mind staining, then wrap an old towel or a plastic cape around your shoulders. Coat your hairline, the tips of your ears, and the back of your neck with petroleum jelly. Finally, pull on a pair of plastic gloves. Make sure that the old towel is a darker color. Work in an area that is easy to clean, such as a bathroom or kitchen. If you are worried about staining the counters or floors, cover them with newspaper, paper bags, or plastic bags.

Pin your hair up, leaving only the bottom layer loose. It is easier to dye your hair in layers .5–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm) thick rather than in sections. Part your hair across the back of your head at about ear-level. Pull everything above the part into a bun. Secure the bun with a claw-clip. It'll be the easier to remove and replace. If you have very thick hair, you may want to part it even lower so that you are working with thinner sections. If your hair is too short to pull into a bun, use clips. If you have chin-length or shorter hair, you may not have to do this step at all.

Prepare your dye according to the instructions on the package. Some dyes come in a kit that already include the dye and developer. For other dyes, you must purchase the developer separately. Follow the instructions that came with the dye to find out how you should mix them. You can mix the dye in the squeeze bottles that came in the kit, or you can mix it in a non-metal bowl. If you are lightening your hair, add 1 to 3 packets of toner. The more packets you use, the ashier the final color will be. If you can't find packets of toner, don't worry; you can wash your hair with purple shampoo afterwards to remove brassy hints.

Perform a strand test to gauge the color. Take a thin strand of hair from an inconspicuous area, such as your nape, and apply the dye to it. Cover the strand with plastic wrap, and let the dye sit for the time recommended on the bottle. Rinse the dye out with cool water, then let it dry. You don't have to use conditioner for this since this is just a strand test. Although not absolutely necessary, strand tests are highly recommended because the color may come out differently from what you expect. If the dye did not turn out the way you wanted it, you’ll have to buy a different color.

Applying the Dye

Use your fingers or a tinting brush to work the dye into your hair. If you left the dye in the squeeze bottle, it will be easier to just squirt the dye onto your hair, then work it in with your fingers. If you prepared it in a bowl, use a tinting brush to apply it to your hair instead. Work in 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) sections so that you get everything covered. If you are lightening your hair, start applying the dye from the ends first. If you are using regular dye, or if you are dyeing it darker, apply it starting from the roots.

Let down a thin layer of hair. Undo the bun on top of your head and let your hair fall down. Gather your hair up into a half-up ponytail again, this time 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so above the original part. Pull the hair up into a bun and secure it with a clip.

Apply more dye to the next layer of hair. Use your fingers or tinting brush to apply more dye to the dry, undyed portions of your hair. Don't worry if you accidentally get some dye on the parts that have already been colored. If you are lightening your hair, try to work quickly so that it doesn't over-process. Even though the dye doesn't have bleach in it, it may still damage it.

Repeat the process until you reach the top of your head. Continue letting down and dyeing layers of hair until you reach the top of your head. At this point, it would be a good idea to go over your hairline and part, and sure that the dye has been applied evenly. If you need to, apply more dye to the short hairs around your hairline, temples, and nape.

Finishing the Job

Let the dye sit in your hair for the time recommended on the package. This can range anywhere from 25 to 60 minutes, depending on the brand and type of dye that you are using. Do not go over the time recommended on the package, especially if you are lightening it. Letting blonde dye sit in your hair longer than the recommended time won't make it lighter; it will only damage it. Pull all of your hair up into a loose bun, then cover it with a shower cap. This will help keep your surroundings clean.

Rinse the dye with cool water, then follow-up with conditioner. Do not use any shampoo. Just rinse your hair with cool to lukewarm water until the water runs clear. Next, apply some conditioner to your hair. Let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes, then rinse it out using cool or lukewarm water. Make sure that the conditioner is sulfate-free or formulated for dyed hair. You can also use the conditioner that came with your dye kit.

Dry and style your hair as desired. If possible, allow your hair to air dry. If you can't do that, use a hairdryer on a low-heat setting. Some people find that letting their hair air dry partway first, then blow drying it the rest of the way works best. Expert Answer Q What color of hair dye lasts the longest? Laura Martin Laura Martin Licensed Cosmetologist Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013. Laura Martin EXPERT ADVICE Answer from Laura Martin: Warm natural colors are the most resistant to fading. A rich chestnut or gold blonde will fade much less than vibrant red or ash shades.

Tone your hair if it came out brassy or yellow. Get your hair wet, then apply a purple toning shampoo to it. Let the shampoo sit in your hair for the time recommended on the bottle, typically 5 to 15 minutes, then rinse it out with cool water. Dry your hair as usual. If you added packets of hair toner into blonde hair dye, you probably won't run into this problem. It would be a good idea to wear plastic gloves for this step. Purple shampoo has a small amount of dye in it, and it can stain your hands.

Wait 72 hours before washing your hair with shampoo. This is very important because your hair is still porous at this stage. If you wash it too soon, then the dye may come out or fade. Give your hair 72 hours so that the cuticles can close and absorb the hair dye. Make sure that you use shampoo and conditioner made for dyed hair. If you can't find any, use sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner. Afterward, be sure to take proper care of your dyed hair to make the color last longer.