How to Find a Levi's Style Number

Checking the Label

Look for the label on the back waistband of your jeans. The leather or cardstock label should feature the Levi’s symbol of 2 horses pulling at a pair of jeans. In fact, this iconic label is known as the Two Horse patch. The company was called “The Two Horse Brand” from 1873 until 1928, when it trademarked the Levi’s name. In the 1950s, the leather patch was replaced with heavy cardstock to decrease the manufacturing cost per pair.

Check the lower left-hand corner of the Two Horse label for the style number. Although some very early pairs of jeans did not have a lot number or style number on the label, it should be included on any jeans manufactured after the late 1930s. The style numbers are 3 digits and usually start with 5. The opening 5 in the style number indicates that the jeans are Levi’s highest quality. The two horses are meant to symbolize the strength of the jeans’ rivets.

Look at the tag inside the jeans for the style number if the label is faded. In modern Levi’s, the style number is often included on the care tag inside the jeans. The presence of a care tag can also help you date your jeans, since they started being added in the 1970s.

Determining the Style Number of Jeans without a Label

Compare your jeans to other Levi's. Although the leg opening and fit of Levi's jeans changes slightly to adapt to trends, their style remains fairly consistent. Examine your jeans carefully and compare them to other styles to see which they resemble most closely. The classic 501 is known as the Original Fit, and features a straight leg and classic fit. The 505, or Regular Fit, has a straight leg and a loose fit, and are the style that Mick Jagger wore on the cover of the Rolling Stones' album Sticky Fingers in 1971. The 517 features a casual boot cut, and fits slightly slimmer through the leg.

Check the color tab. The red tab with the white Levi’s logo (or a simple trademark symbol) is immediately identifiable, but this is mostly used on 501s and their denim jackets. Other style numbers might use different colored tabs, so check to see what your pair has. In the 1960s, Levi’s used an orange tab to label their fashion denim, including bellbottoms, shirts, hats, and accessories. Orange tabs are still sometimes used in vintage reproductions. A dark-colored tab with an orange carrot is the signature of Levi’s Fresh Produce line from the 1970s. A blue tab denotes Levi’s premium line, Levi’s Made and Crafted. A silver tab was used starting in the late 1980s for Levi’s baggy jeans.

Try to determine the date of your Levi’s. Levi’s jeans have undergone numerous changes since they were introduced in 1873. Look for small details that can help you determine when they were made. In 1941, Levi’s dropped the rivet from the crotch of their jeans because it had a tendency to get too hot when the wearer sat beside a campfire. During WWII, Levi’s backed the war effort by removing rivets and decorative stitching from their jeans. The stitching on the back pockets, known as the arcuate, was painted on instead. Jeans made after 1971 will have a lowercase “e” on their red tab. Prior to this, the logo had an uppercase “e.”

Check with Levi’s historians if your vintage jeans don’t have a label. Levi’s have a huge following all around the world. Some people specialize in the history of denim, especially the Levi’s brand. Contact a historian if you can not determine the style number on your own. Search local directories to see if there are any vintage shops near you which might specialize in Levi's denim. Find forums online that center around vintage fashion. Browse their resources for Levi's-specific information or use the message boards to ask questions about your jeans.