Causes & Fixes
Gently jiggle the wheel to see if the key comes free. Maynes recommends starting with this since it’s the most common solution. Calmly wiggle the steering wheel back and forth repeatedly. At the same time, lightly move your key back and forth while trying to pull it out. The key may come free. Why did this solution work? Maynes explains, “People will grab the wheel of the car as they’re getting ready to get out of the vehicle, and what happens is that the pressure from the steering column pushes against the steering gears and the ignition cylinder. This creates a kind of pinching situation where all of the pressure from both the wheel and the column hold the key in place.”
Put your car in park or neutral if it’s in gear. Take a quick look at your shifter. If your vehicle isn’t in park (or neutral), switch gears to remedy that. Then, try removing your key. If your car is still on, put the vehicle in park before turning it off to see if that resolves the issue. Maynes says the gear shift on older cars can get stuck in-between gears and cause the same problem. “Some cars have a ‘park neutral’ switch. If the car’s computer sees the switch hasn’t flipped all the way to park or neutral, it won’t disengage the key.” Why did this solution work? A lot of modern vehicles will not allow you to remove the key if the car is in drive for safety reasons. Your car may also not be able to release the key if the cylinder is engaged while you’re in drive.
Make sure the accessory mode is off if the electrical is on. Accessory mode is the position on the ignition cylinder in between “lock” and “on.” Take a look at the orientation of your key to see if it’s in the accessory slot (this is probably the case if the electrical works but the car isn’t running). If it is, turn the key to the off position and try to remove it. Why did this solution work? The key cannot be removed when the vehicle’s accessory mode is engaged because the key physically helps complete the circuit that powers the dashboard. As a safety precaution, the key won’t budge if it’s in ACC mode.
Jump the battery (or replace it) if there isn’t any power. If you don’t have any juice at all, the battery may be the issue here. Start with the easy option and try jumping your car’s battery with a donor car battery and jumper cables. If the car can get some electrical power, the key should pop out. If you’re getting zero power at all, try replacing the battery with a fresh one to see if that fixes things. Signs of a bad car battery include: malfunctioning electronics leading up to the key issue, battery swelling, corrosion on the terminals, and/or a battery warning light on the dash. Maynes says the battery is more likely to have failed if it’s more than 3-4 years old or you drive in extreme heat regularly. As he aptly puts it, “The heat kills the batteries like no one's business.” Why did this solution work? In most modern vehicles, a dead battery will freeze the ignition cylinder because the key completes an electrical circuit. When the car has no power, that circuit locks to prevent electrical shorts or damage to the ignition.
Clean your key if it appears dirty. Was your key kind of filthy or worn down before it got stuck? If so, grab a silicone-based lubricant designed for electrical systems (like specialist WD-40 or CRC) and use the hose on the nozzle to spritz a little bit of lube inside of the ignition. Wait a minute or so and then try wiggling the key free. Pro-tip: If you feel zero give to the key, the key being dirty probably isn’t to blame. If you do see a minor difference though, keep spraying the gap between the key and the ignition. It’ll wiggle free. Replace the key when you finally remove it. Don’t use the normal, generic version of WD-40. There’s a thin chance that it fries an electrical system in your ignition cylinder. Why did this solution work? If the key is super dirty, the debris on the metal may be interfering with the tumblers inside of the ignition cylinder. If you’re exceptionally unlucky, the key can get stuck.
Straighten the key (or replace it) if it’s damaged. If you can tell that the key is damaged in some way, see if you can carefully and slowly adjust the shape of the key while it’s stuck in the ignition. If you can bend it or move it so that the tumblers reengage, it should come free. Why did this solution work? There are small pins inside of the ignition cylinder that need to be pressed for the key to come free or turn. If those pins aren’t engaged because the key is misshapen, it may get stuck.
When to See a Mechanic
If the other solutions don’t work, the ignition cylinder is probably bad. If you’ve successfully ruled out all of the straightforward solutions (wiggling the wheel, jumping the battery, etc.), you can safely assume the ignition itself is damaged. This can happen—especially as a car ages—and the repair requires the help of a professional. See a mechanic to have them take a look at the issue. It’s also possible the solenoid is bad and the cylinder is fine, although that normally shouldn’t keep a key from coming free. A new ignition lock cylinder is likely to run $250-300.
What to Do if the Key Breaks in the Ignition
If the key breaks, try using pliers to remove the broken key. If the key breaks, grab some needle-nose pliers and carefully grip the visible edge of the key. Pull directly away from the ignition. It may take you multiple attempts, but you should be able to slowly wiggle the key out. If the pliers seem like they aren’t working, try wrapping wire around a groove in the key and pulling on it that way. What if I can’t see the edge of the key? You’ll need to see a mechanic to have them disassemble the cylinder housing and steering column to fetch the key. Warning: Do not use any solutions that involve magnets, glue, or screwdrivers. These tools are more likely to ruin your ignition cylinder than remove your key safely.
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