Issey Miyake turned a school gymnasium into a catwalk for Paris Fashion Week on Friday, presenting women’s winter wardrobes in a kaleidoscope of colours.
Designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae sent out models in a mainly dark palette of grey and black coats, jackets and dresses, at times printed, before apple green, purple, yellow and aquamarine creations burst onto the runway.
The brand is known for its pleats as well as use of technology and Miyamae played with volumes and textures in the Autumn/Winter 2019 line, making tops, skirts and coats seem multi-dimensional.
Show notes said the creations were made with a new resin printed “Blink” fabric, meant to resemble a kaleidoscope-like pattern of colours.
“One of the characteristics of this new fabric...is that it starts from something two-dimensional but then when someone wears it, something 3D-like goes into the clothes,” Miyamae said backstage. “So it starts to move and change shape according to someone’s movement or body shapes.”
Prints came in abstract patterns with geometric shapes and swirls, which Miyamae said were inspired by everyday sensations.
A moldable “Dough Dough” fabric, which can be styled and shaped by the wearer, came as a softer, wool-like version in the collection.
Colourful printed coats as well as long-sleeved tops had large or high loose collars. Trousers were loose, legging-like or cropped above the ankle.
“I wanted to achieve this mixture of colour, that you sometimes get by chance. For instance, this morning, it was raining quite heavily, but later it became really sunny, so the quality and colour of light keeps changing,” Miyamae said.
“I wanted to get this particular instance of lighting, in creating colour layers and express what is almost like serendipity, that I get this amazing colour like a montage.”
Paris Fashion Week, the last leg of the month-long catwalk season which began in New York before moving to London and Milan, runs until March 5.
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