How to Authenticate an Hermès Birkin Bag
How to Authenticate an Hermès Birkin Bag
The Hermès Birkin bag is one of the most coveted, famous, and expensive bags in the world. These bags are highly sought after for their luxurious leather, structured style, expert craftsmanship, and elegant appearance, which also means that fakes are super common. In this article, we’ll walk you through all the signs that a Birkin is fake, from its stitching to its smell. We’ll also share stylish alternatives to the Birkin for all different price ranges. Read on to learn more!
Fake Birkin Bag vs. a Real Birkin Bag

How to Tell If a Birkin is Real or Fake

Check for quality leather with a small, smooth grain. Most genuine Hermès Birkin bags are made out of Togo calfskin leather, which has a small, pebble-like texture and smooth finish. Fake bags are often made out of plastic or a poorer quality leather and don’t replicate the small leather grain well. Some real Birkin bags are made out of more “exotic” leather, like crocodile. These bags are usually stamped with a special symbol to indicate the type of leather.

Sniff the bag for a pleasant leather smell. Because genuine Birkin bags are made out of leather, they have a pleasurable earthy and woodsy smell. If the bag smells like plastic, rubber, glue, or chemicals, it is likely a fake.

Look for precise but hand-sewn stitching. All Birkin bags are hand-sewn by a single skilled artisan. So, while the stitching is clean and tight, it might not look as uniform as a sewing machine. If the bag’s stitching is perfectly consistent or messy and crooked, it might be a fake. Tip: Inspect the stitching around the handle in particular. The stitching is usually the hardest spot for an Hermès artisan to sew, so there might be more imperfections or areas where there’s double stitching. If the stitching is incredibly smooth and perfect, you may be looking at a fake. Take note of how the bag is constructed, too. On genuine bags, pieces of leather are expertly sewn together, the edges are smooth, and there are no visible frays, bits of glue, or uneven stitches.

Check for smooth, matching hardware. The turn locks, clasps, zippers, and feet on real Birkin bags are all made out of the same palladium or gold-plated palladium. The palladium gives the hardware a shiny finish and a solid, weighty appearance. The hardware on fake bags might look too shiny or matte and appear in different colors and finishes across the bag. Inspect the zipper carefully: On genuine bags, the zipper is engraved with “Hermès.” It will not be engraved with another manufacturer’s logo, such as “YKK.” On new bags, the hardware comes sealed in a plastic film. On fakes, the hardware might be covered in plastic stickers or messily wrapped in plastic wrap.

Look for 4 tapered feet on the bottom of the bag. Genuine Birkin bags have 4 “feet” (called clou) on the bottom of the bag that match the hardware of the rest of the bag. The feet slightly taper out, with the ends narrower than the top. On fake bags, the feet are often the same width around and might not match the rest of the hardware. On genuine bags, the feet feel secure and stable because they are hammered into 2 strips of leather. The feet on fake bags might feel flimsy or wobbly.

Search for 2 pockets inside the bag. Check the inside of the bag for 2 pockets, which all genuine Birkin bags have. The pocket at the front has no zipper, while the pocket at the back has a zipper. Many fakes either do not include pockets or place the zipper in the wrong place. Look at the zipper itself: On genuine bags, the zipper is aligned horizontally along the closure instead of hanging down vertically. Many fake bags don’t replicate this correctly.

Check that the handles are uniform and made of rolled leather. All genuine Birkin bags have 2 structured handles that stick straight up on top of the bag. They are made out of the same leather as the rest of the bag but rolled to give the handles a smooth finish. If the handles look mismatched, different colors, or roughly made, the bag might be fake.

Look for a clean and precise Hermès logo on the front of the bag. Genuine Birkin bags are lightly stamped with “HERMÈS PARIS MADE IN FRANCE” under the flap on the front of the bag, just above the turn lock. On fake bags, the logo might not be stamped as clearly or be stamped too deeply into the bag. The stamp has a shiny, foiled appearance that matches the hardware on the bag. Inauthentic Birkin bags also might not get the size of the letters or the font right. They might even get the words incorrect. Compare the logo on the bag you’re looking at to the logo on a real Birkin bag to see if the logo placement, size, font thickness, and font type are as they should be.

Ensure the date stamp matches the year the bag was made. Every Birkin bag is stamped with a letter to indicate the year it was crafted. It is followed by other letters and numbers that tell you about the leather type, color, and artisan who made the bag. Look for a date stamp in your bag, and if there is one, ensure it matches the year your bag is said to be made in. For bags made in 2015 and after, the stamp is inside the bag on one of the sides. For bags made between 1997 and 2014, the stamp is on the handle or closure strap. The first letter is also inside a square. For bags made between 1984 and 1996, the stamp is also on the handle or closure strap. However, the first letter is inside a circle. Look up the first letter of the stamp online to see what year the bag is supposed to be made in, or check out this list of Hermès date stamps. Tip: Search for your bag's year, size, material, and color online to ensure Hermès has produced and sold the combination in a prior model. If they haven’t, it’s probably a fake.

Feel the inside of the bag for a soft leather lining. The interior of a Birkin bag is also made out of leather, but instead of Togo calfskin leather, it is goatskin. If the bag’s lining doesn’t look, feel, or smell like leather, it is more than likely a fake.

Check for a coating that’s more matte than shiny. Birkin bags are coated in a lacquer that gives them a matte appearance with a slight sheen. Most fake bags can’t match the subtle coating and often appear super shiny and glossy. Leather naturally develops a patina as it ages, which gives it more of a shine. So, vintage Birkin bags might look more shiny than newer ones.

Ensure the bag comes in a high-quality dust bag. All new Birkin bags come in a high-quality dust bag to protect the purse from debris and scratches. In general, most bags are a light cream color and printed with the Hermès carriage logo in the center. If the bag looks poorly constructed, is a different color, or is missing the logo, it’s probably inauthentic. Note: Hermès sometimes uses different colored dust bags for their purses, so search for the style of bag online to see what dust bag it should come in. If you’re looking at a second-hand Birkin bag, it’s possible that the current owner lost the dust bag. So, check the other areas of the bag to determine if it’s authentic or not.

Look for a uniform size and upright shape. Authentic Birkin bags only come in these standard sizes: 25, 30, 35, and 40 cm. They are also expertly constructed to stand up straight without support. If the bag you’re looking at is much shorter or longer than these standard measurements or flops over easily, it may be a fake. Note: Hermès has released limited edition Birkin bags that are outside of these standard sizes, such as the Birkin 15 and 20.

See if the price tag is too good to be true. Birkin bags are highly coveted luxury purses that are seen as status symbols for the rich and famous. New bags usually cost at least $10,000, while pre-owned, vintage bags are often priced much higher! So, if the bag you’re looking at costs much less than this, it is almost certainly a fake. The price of a Birkin bag depends on the leather used, its rarity, and its condition; many vintage bags often appreciate in value because of this. The most expensive Birkin bag is the Sac Bijou Birkin, which is priced at $2 million. The most expensive bag sold at auction is the Diamond Himalaya, which sold for $450,000! Wondering why a Birkin bag is so expensive? Fashion stylist Melissa Young explains that it’s likely due to “the structure,” “the way that it’s created,” and “the work that goes into creating it.” Plus, she says a Birkin “can outlive some of us…it can last for years and decades.”

Consider how easy it is to purchase a new bag. Because Birkin bags are so exclusive and one-of-a-kind, you can’t just walk into an Hermès store and buy one. Interested customers have to first establish a history of shopping at Hermès. Then, they have to wait for Hermès to send new Birkin bags to their stores around the world—Hermès usually sends out bags twice a year and only allows their boutiques to stock a small number of bags. There is typically a long line of customers hoping to buy a Birkin bag, so it may take several months to get one. If there’s a particular style you want, it usually takes even longer. It’s typically an easier process to purchase a Birkin bag from an auction house, like Sotheby's, or a luxury resale site like Vestiaire Collective or TheRealReal.

Where to Find Faux or Inspired Birkin Bags

Look for inspired bags from Michael Kors, Kate Spade, or Coach. If you don’t want to shell out thousands of dollars for a Birkin but you still want a high-quality bag, many reputable fashion designers sell chic, structured handbags that look similar: In the several hundred dollar range, check out Michael Kors’ Marilyn Satchel bag. Or, look for bags at Kate Spade, Dooney & Burke, or Coach. In the $100 and under range, search for structured leather satchel handbags on Amazon, such as the Dasein Satchel Tote (4.5 stars).

Check out Birkin bag dupes on Temu, AliExpress, or Shein. Online marketplaces are well known for selling luxury bag dupes that look pretty similar to the real thing. If you want to rock the look of a Birkin bag without paying luxury brand prices, look for Birkin bag dupes on Temu, AliExpress, DHgate, or Shein.

Opt for a luxury bag from Tory Birch, Ferragamo, or Saint Laurent. If you’re in the market for a high-end bag but don’t want to pay Birkin bag prices, look at purses from other luxury designers. For instance, check out the Lee Radziwill bag from Tory Birch or the Hug bag from Ferragamo. Saint Laurent, Celine, Fendi, or Tom Ford also sell chic, structured handbags. Bags from these designers are more in the $1,000 to $3,000 range.

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